The dog house has a raised floor
that sits 2-1/2" above ground level. It fits into slots routered
into the two side walls which add a little extra structural
integrity and make it easier to assemble the house.
To lay out the floor slots, assemble the four walls and run a
pencil down each insider corner to mark the side walls. These marks
define the length of the slots. Disassemble the house, lay each side
wall on the work surface, and draw a line 2-1/2" parallel to the
bottom between the two vertical corner lines. This indicates the top
of the floor. Draw another line below the first that is offset by
the thickness of the plywood, in this case, 5/8". Actually, make it
slightly thicker than the plywood - the extra wiggle room will be
helpful during assembly.
Using a router with an edge guide, remove the material between the
two layout lines extending from corner line to corner line. I didn't
cut the slots all the way to the corners and ended up notching out
the corners of the floor - not sure why I did this but I suggest
cutting from corner to corner.
Cut out two pieces from the 2 x 4 that are 18-3/4" long. Screw them
to the underside of the floor, one across the front and one across
the back. These pieces will make the floor more sturdy and
Rufff, I mean Roof
The roof on the Bowser is designed to be quickly installed or
removed thanks to pairs of locking "sliders" positioned near the
corners of the roof.
Each pair consists of a top slider that attaches to the
underside of the panel, and a side slider that attaches to the
inside wall of the enclosure. The basic idea is that the roof is
placed on top of the walls projecting a few inches forward of its
final position and then slid towards the back of the house to engage
the sliders. When fully seated, each pair of sliders will be in full
contact with each other and the roof will be secured in place.
Because the roof slopes backwards, gravity will help to keep the
roof in the locked position. To remove the roof, you simply pull it
towards the front of the house until the sliders are disengaged and
then lift it straight up.
To build the roof, first cut the roof panel
to size, allowing for the desired wall overhang - for this house, I
made the overhang 4" in front, 2" in back, and 3-1/2" on the sides.
Next cut the four pairs of locking sliders.
Each slider is made from a piece of plywood 2" wide and 6" long with
the curved portion extending about half it length. To layout the
curve, I made an angled line in the middle of the slider and used a
large washer to establish curves extending from each end of the line
to the top and bottom. The slider is then cut out on the bandsaw or
hand-held scroll saw and sanded smooth with a sander. I used an
oscillating drum sander but a basic drum sander in a hand drill
would also work.
Screw the four bottom sliders to the inside
walls of the house as shown in the photo. The back sliders can go
flush against the back wall but the front ones need to be
offset a sufficient distance from the front wall to allow the top
slider to slip down into position.
Reassemble the house with the floor removed
and place it upside down on the underside of the roof. Shift the
structure around as necessary until the desired overhang is
established on all four sides. Reach down and position each roof
slider so it fits snugly into its mating wall slider and mark its
tracing along two of the sides. Once all four slider positions are
marked remove the house frame.
Align each roof slider against the trace
lines and temporarily affix it in place using double-sided tape.
Using two screws per slider, attach the two sliders on each side of
the roof to a 2" wide by 22" long piece of plywood, placed on the
inner side of the sliders. This support piece adds extra rigidity to
the roof and also prevents the sliders from accidentally getting
Turn the roof over with the sliders resting
on the work surface, mark the center of each support piece and
attach it to the roof using two deck screws. The sliding mechanism
is now complete.
Finishing touches and assembly ->
Figure 1. Floor fits into slots cut into side walls.
Figure 2. Close-up view of a pair of locking sliders used to hold
the roof in place.
Figure 3. Sliders attached to underside of the roof.
Figure 4. Sliders attached to inside of side walls.
Figure 4. Side view of roof sliders.
Figure 5.Finished house with sliding roof removed.